3363 Ocean Front Walk

Sea Of Joy

2012-02-05T23:10:00.000-08:00

Light Santa Ana flow on a sunny afternoon...

Sunset glow for the last few rides of the day...

Ocean Breeze

2012-01-11T21:45:00.000-08:00

Sunset Cliffs: afternoon breeze on a dropping tide...

Winter Classic

2012-01-10T10:36:00.000-08:00

Quintessential California Gold

2012-01-09T10:09:00.000-08:00

Sunset Cliffs: golden lines unfold on the shallow reefs.

Only For The Brave!

2012-01-07T17:30:00.000-08:00

Sunset Cliffs

Sunset Cliffs: monster lines in the 12 to 15 foot range are rolling in at sunset.

Twilight

2012-01-05T23:50:00.000-08:00

Afternoon Delight

2012-01-04T23:00:00.000-08:00

LIquid Walls

2012-01-03T18:57:00.000-08:00

San Diego County

2012

2012-01-01T23:52:00.000-08:00

San Diego

Mellow Yellow

2011-12-28T22:59:00.000-08:00

New Swell In Town

2011-12-27T00:44:00.000-08:00

Point Loma

St. Stephen's Day

2011-12-26T07:32:00.000-08:00

San Diego

Dropping Yule-Tide!

2011-12-25T19:33:00.000-08:00

San Diego: Xmas Day

San Diego: Xmas Day San Diego: Xmas Day

Winter Solstice

2011-12-21T05:38:00.000-08:00

San Diego County

The Sweet Smell of Fall

2011-11-29T05:32:00.000-08:00

San Diego County

November Bliss

2010-11-03T16:14:00.000-07:00

A record-setting Santa Ana heat wave brought 90+ degree temps to San Diego beaches this week, while a major NW swell delivered well overhead surf with occasional DOH sets. Perfect synchronicity! Gleaming turquoise walls... feathering lips... blazing sunshine...offshore winds... and friends to share it with! It doesn't get much better than this! November in California!

A day in the life of Charles Magel

2010-09-08T11:09:00.000-07:00

Professor Charles Magel, 90 years old, sits quietly in a secluded corner of his garden where stress of any kind is completely forbidden!

A Visit from Haruo Matsuoka

2010-04-23T11:39:00.000-07:00

..."Hello and good bye, that’s spring" is an old Japanese saying. On April 7th 2010, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, I meet Haruo Matsuoka at Shosenji aikidojo in Toyonaka, Osaka....Matsuoka, looking slim and healthy, is sitting on the edge of the sofa in our dojo, wearing jeans and sweater, watching us train. The only thing that betrays his martial expertise is the way he sits. When famous Zen and Sword Master Sogen Omori first met aikido founder Morihei Ueshiba, he saw him sitting in a group of people not knowing who he was. But from the way he sat, relaxed, yet constantly on guard, Omori immediately recognized the Master.
After training, I get invited to an informal question and answer session with Matsuoka at Friendly’s, the neighborhood family restaurant. His reason for coming here? He trained at Shosenji dojo for a little while when he was a high school student and, being in the area, he started feeling nostalgic. Lucky us!
He talks about his early days in the US. He was in his twenties and had no idea where he was going. Being taken with aikido and Seagal, it seemed like a good idea to follow him. When their first movies became a success, they lived large and feasted on the most luxurious foods. But, he adds, if you become hugely successful very early, this can become a kind of failure. ‘We would eat food for hundreds of dollars,’ he explains, ‘and I thought, wow, this will not go on forever, but the danger is that if you experience the luxury of success too early, you start believing it will always be this way.’
After being reminded of fame’s transience, we get to hear about aikido. He has met some outstanding teachers whose expertise reveals the true nature of traditional Japanese martial arts and puts them into stark contrast with their modern sport versions. ‘Whether you practice iaido, aikido, or karate, using your centre, breathing, and ki, and moving without telegraphing your actions mark the truly skilled martial artist.’
He names Kono-Sensei, Kuroda-Sensei, and Ushiro-Sensei as examples of such masters. ‘I tried to put Ushiro-Sensei in a firm bear hug, but it was as if there was nothing to grab. I cannot put this experience into words. They have this mysterious way of moving their bodies I cannot explain. I believe this contains our country’s authentic martial arts heritage.’
When asked about warm-up exercises, he mentions a teacher who used to do tai-chi to warm up, which gave his aikido great fluidity and strength. ‘But for those of us who do not have that option, furi-tama is the most important warm up exercise.’ ‘Furi-tama’ means ‘shaking the soul’. It involves putting your left palm on top of your right, and shaking both hands in front of your abdomen. ‘But like everything else in aikido’, he adds, ‘it takes a long time till you get it right.’
When asked what he considers the essence of aikido, he repeatedly apologizes for not being able to put it into words. But fortunately he tries. ‘Sometimes you think it is impossible to cover the distance between you and your partner. But all you need to do is be confident that your partner is going to enter far enough for you to do to him what you want, and the distance will be covered. So this is one thing.’ He cocks his head and thinks. ‘Another thing is moving without telegraphing what you are about to do. And finally,’ again, he pauses. ‘The key for me was discovering how to make a connection between tanden and fingertips.’
The tanden is the body’s centre of gravity, three finger widths below, two finger widths behind the navel, a focal point in Chinese medicine, Buddhist and Taoist meditation, and all traditional Japanese martial arts, dances, and theater forms. In aikido, too, effective use of the tanden plays a major role in achieving proper movement and technique.
‘When I discovered this connection,’ says Matsuoka, ‘I thought, wow, I can’t believe it is this easy!’ ‘So what is it like, this connection between tanden and fingertips?’ asks my clever senpai Kinoshita. Thanks to this question, we all get to grab Matsuoka by both hands, and he shows us the difference between using the strength of his arms to push us back, which does nothing much, and the effect of connecting his tanden directly with his fingertips, relaxing his shoulders completely.
The difference is astonishing. The latter makes his technique look effortless, yet has the power to throw us 10 ft back. To explain, he makes a gesture as if to wring his tanden, and sending the wrung out energy forward through his fingers. ‘I really cannot put it into words.’ Sometimes, actions speak louder than words.
When people start asking about things they have heard from other teachers, he shows exemplary humility and deference: ‘I will not be rude to other teachers and contradict what they say. The essence of aikido cannot be put into words. I can only tell you about my own experience. But in the end, everybody has to find their own answers.’
And with that, the session ends. When we leave Friendly’s, Matsuoka Sensei has not even had time to finish his cheesecake, having blessed us with his own brand of friendliness, fed us all a sweet, fresh piece of inspiration, and given us one more reason to keep pursuing our own aikido paths.
The naming of his Doshinkai, the friendship society, reflects Matsuoka’s kind, unassuming personality and makes him a great ambassador of aikido, the martial art that cultivates people’s ki, or life energy, and ai, their ability to connect with others and create harmony. Morihei Ueshiba said the ‘ai’ component signifying ‘encounter’ might just as well be written with the character for love, also pronounced ‘ai’.
The next day on my way to the dojo, I see the cherry blossoms and find myself attacked by the typical feeling they evoke: a surge of love for their beauty mingling with the pain of knowing their departure is just around the corner.
Thinking of Matsuoka Sensei’s words, more determined than ever to find my own answer, I enter training in a philosophical mood. What is the essence of aikido? You connect with your partner, next you fly and connect with the mat. A quick, intense encounter. When my partner sends me flying one more time, I enter a large pink ball of energy before I get slammed down. I rise from the mat and see it. Inside every one of these encounters blooms harmony. Love.
Aikido is a never-ending cherry blossom picnic. Where two people’s ki connects, a beautiful blossom opens up, only to fall again when they disconnect. But as we keep trying our best to fully connect with our partner, we keep approaching our own answers.
A few days later, I am on my way to the dojo again, trying to hold fast to my umbrella, which is in danger of being blown away by the wind, or broken by the heavy rain. Tender pink blossoms are perishing all around me, covering the floor beneath my feet. But I keep on pressing ahead and smile.
This spring has brought me Matsuoka Sensei. The encounter may have been short as tradition demands. But thanks to his inspiring words, I have understood a whole new aspect of cherry blossom beauty. With each flower I see, I keep approaching my own answers on the path of aikido, and every blossom that falls is just another step towards fruition...

(Excerpt from "A visit from Haruo Matsuoka" by Anna Sender)

About the author: Anna Sanner has degrees in Japanese Studies, Translating, and Interpreting and lives in Japan as a writer and translator. She has published her dissertation Karate as a human survival strategy – an evolutionary perspective on karate in “Uchinadi Karate Journal.” She has been training karate for 10 years, aikido for 5 and is presently studying with Katsuyuki Shimamoto Shihan at Shosenji dojo in Toyonaka, Osaka.

Paddle Out For Kit

2010-04-22T14:48:00.000-07:00

Saturday 17th, - Paddle out at Beacon's - (Photo - Ed Lewis)

Leucadia surfers, family and friends gathered at Beacon's on Saturday morning to celebrate Kit Horn's life at his memorial paddle out.

Kit Horn

2010-04-15T14:33:00.000-07:00

Well-known surfer and Leucadia resident Christopher “Kit” Horn, after a session at Beacons. For more than 60 years, Horn surfed almost daily. (Pam Kelso photo)

Kit’ Horn, 80: Big-wave pioneer in California
By Brad Melekian

On March 26, consummate California surfer and waterman Christopher “Kit” Horn died at his home overlooking the surf in Leucadia. Horn, 80, a renowned surfer who began riding waves in Southern California in the early 1940s, continued surfing until last summer when he fell ill with cancer.
Horn’s surfing legacy will be his pioneering of surf breaks, particularly big-wave surf breaks, in California. Horn was among a legendary group of tough-minded original surfers who sought out and rode big waves in California and on the North Shore of Oahu in the late 1950s and early ’60s. He is famous for having ridden many waves in frigid Central and Northern California waters by himself in the same time period.
“He was known as one of the original big-wave underground guys,” says Matt Warshaw, author of the forthcoming The History of Surfing. “Everyone knew who he was and everyone knew he rode big waves, but he never went in for the big-wave celebrity thing.”
Horn, a lifelong athlete, began riding waves in Santa Monica in 1941, when the sport was primitive and relegated to a small band of surfers up and down the coast. An avid waterman, Horn would dive for abalone and lobster in Santa Monica Bay at a time when he could fill a gunny sack with either in an hour, said his son Brit. While he was committed to riding big waves, Horn, who earned a business degree from USC in the 1950s, where he was a member of the swim team, established a life in San Diego County, raising a family and working in sales.
He continued to surf throughout California through the decades, and Horn will be remembered by those he surfed with more recently for his ability to stay enthusiastic and excited about the sport well into his 70s. Many of the surfers he had ridden waves with in the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s dropped out of the sport as it went through its permutations, but Horn reveled in surfing’s changes.
“He was 40 when the shortboard revolution came around,” Brit Horn said. “And he went with that change. When he was in his 70s, he was riding boards that were under seven feet in length.”
Horn also continued to ride big waves well into his later years. Brit Horn, who lives in Sonoma County, says his father kept a complete quiver of surfboards and always had at least four big-wave “guns.” Brit says he surfed with his father in the notoriously heavy surf at Point Arena in Northern California until his father was 72 or 73.
“I’m 51,” says Brit, a lifeguard and well-respected surfer in his own right. “I surf several days a week, and up until a few years ago, I could say that my dad surfed more than I did. He surfed pretty much every day that there were waves.”
By surfing consistently into his late 70s, Horn became an icon in the North County surfing community, known for his resilience and his enthusiasm for the sport. Locals admired Horn’s ability to surf consistently into his older years.
“A lot of people around him would look to my dad,” Brit Horn says. “A lot of people surfed in the ’60s and ’70s, but stopped. It gave people inspiration. You know, ‘Kit’s still going strong and as stoked as ever.’ ”
Brit says his father’s enthusiasm for the sport came from what he got from riding waves. “Surfing kept him young,” he says. “It keeps all of us young, but my dad had a spirit about him that he got from surfing.”
Horn is survived by his wife, Gwen, and his four children, Pamela Kelso, Lizabeth Lamberty and his sons Kirk and Brit.

Words of Wisdom

2010-03-16T12:53:00.000-07:00

"Always keep your mind as bright and clear as the vast sky, the great ocean, and the highest peak, empty of all thoughts...Fill yourself with the power of wisdom and enlightenment."
~ Morihei Ueshiba

Storm Surf

2010-03-02T12:20:00.001-08:00

- Storm surf in PB -

-Point Loma -

- Pacific Beach boardwalk -

Powerful double overhead surf flooded the PB boardwalk a few times in the morning. The majority of spots were unsurfable on Sunday.

Caution Is Strongly Advised!

2010-02-25T13:18:00.000-08:00

The short range models continue to agree on that significant NW swell event this weekend, with ETA now slated for Sunday the 28th. Yesterday a system did peak near the Aleutians with about 25-foot seas. The 30h+ models though show this one reforming once passing through the Gulf, pumping up 25- to 30-foot seas when just hundreds of miles off the Oregon coast, then diving southeastward to center itself around the Central Coast of California, maintaining 20-foot seas when near Pt. Conception. This, by the way, is the same low mentioned in the weather section above that's to bring foul weather to the region Friday night into Saturday; thus, the reform on this is bad news as it has "stormy surf" written all over it. Having 20+ foot seas though so close to the California coast means very sizable surf, but given the conditions, this swell is looking hazardous. Nevertheless, we could see size maxing out at the standout west facing breaks in the TOH zone from this Sunday. Running the numbers today, based on the 60h+ models placing this fetch so close to SoCal, we'd see 270-280° swell with 16-second periods, with face heights that could exceed 15 feet at the best, well-exposed west facing breaks. Peak of this swell appears to be pre-dawn, so mid to late morning sessions could see less in the way of size. Weather should clear when this swell peaks, but with such stormy conditions the day before, conditions won't likely clean up all too well. And needless to say, myriad hazards are to be expected. Caution is strongly advised.

(excerpt from Wet Sand Forecast)

Valentine's Weekend

2010-02-19T09:20:00.000-08:00

The swell increased in size throughout the weekend; occasional double overhead + sets came through on Saturday, becoming more frequent on Sunday aftenoon. The majority of spots often closed out on the big sets. It was not a clean swell, although a few great rides could be found here and there...

Surfed Out!

2010-02-01T12:09:00.000-08:00

San Diego County (1-31-10 ) - Photo: Cliffrider

San Diego County (1-31-10) - Photo: Cliffrider

For the last few weeks the San Diego coast has been pounded by a sequence of El Nino driven swells; heavy rains and bad weather affected the conditions at times, but windows of great surf were to be found in between storms... I have lost count of waves, sessions and locations... the past weekend was no exception, another wave-fest for sure!

Forecast

2010-01-19T11:29:00.000-08:00

...This week will see El Niño driven surf, the likes of which we may not have seen since 1998, although conditions are looking less than favorable and hazards will abound. This morning, the buoys are showing the swell arriving, with most buoys in NCal running 20-22 feet with 18+ second periods. Harvest Platform (near Pt. Conception) reported 25-foot seas. San Nicholas Island, sitting well off the coast of SoCal, was reporting 21 foot seas this morning as well. Buoys closer to the SoCal coast though have yet to feel the brunt of the incoming swell, but were hovering around 7 feet. This swell will fill in throughout the day in SoCal, making full impact on Wednesday the 20th. Although this is from a system that formed in the Western Pacific, this is not what will bring us the bulk of the swell. Instead, the jetstream is draped over our area, driving this storm towards SoCal and intensifying it within just 1000 or so miles of the coast. A similar scenario should play out for more bursts of swell hitting us through Saturday morning: each should form the bulk of their strength within just 1000 miles of the coast, and come in from a near direct westerly angle of 270-280°. This activity should subside Sunday as high pressure moving into the region pushes the jetstream to the north, and swell activity diminishes as well. Here's how the day-to-day is breaking down so far:
Wednesday the 20th should be the full impact day for this particular swell. Energy should come in from 270° with 16- to 18-second periods. Most west facing breaks should see average sets DOH+, with some waves running 15 feet on the face. Rogue waves are possible as well. Caution is strongly advised.
Thursday the 21st should see the next swath of westerly swell. This could produce 15-foot face heights along west facing breaks. Caution is strongly advised.
Friday the 22nd this swell could produce face heights 20+ feet along west facing beaches. Caution is strongly advised.
Saturday the 23rd this swell could peak in the early morning hours, producing 20-foot surf early, backing off though throughout the day.
Sunday the 24th, so far, is looking a bit smaller, perhaps DOH max...

(excerpt from Wetsand surf forecast)

Huge Thursday

2010-01-18T15:16:00.000-08:00

Outside Sunset Cliffs, photo by Ari Marsh

On Thursday, January 14, a massive W/NW swell delivered huge surf to the San Diego coastline, closing out the majority of spots.

Roving surf journalist, Ari Marsh, AKA Soul Rider, caught this moment when a brave, lone surfer sitting a good 1/4 mile offshore tapped into the source by taking off on one of the biggest waves of the day.

Note: The specks in the foreground are the other surfers who thought they were sitting on the far outside of the line-up of this particular Sunset Cliffs reef.

As for the surfer: this dude has cajones! While only select surfers even paddled out this day, he was the only one in a very small pack to even attempt to surf the outer most reef.

We Got Surf

2010-01-12T16:16:00.000-08:00

Photo courtesy: Cliffrider

Another powerful burst of swell hit the San Diego coastline during the weekend; 10 foot faces became a usual sight in the line up, especially on Sunday afternoon. Glassy conditions and sunny skies were a nice addition to the mix. The forecast now calls for more surf on the way...

San Diego Red

2010-01-02T09:44:00.000-08:00

Mission Beach Sunset

Late afternoon low tides, solid waves and spectacular sunsets have been the norm during the holidays.

New Year's Day

2010-01-01T09:30:00.000-08:00

Mission Beach

Surfing into the new year...

Emerald Reflections

2009-12-29T19:31:00.000-08:00

Another day of back-lit green walls graced the San Diego coast...it was an open invitation to stay until dark; the emerald reflections of the early afternoon turned into delicate hues of orange and pink. We walked back to our cars under the silver light of a bright moon and a sense of inner peace.

On Any Given Monday

2009-12-29T07:50:00.000-08:00

Corduroy lines in the afternoon light.

A double over-head wave is ready to explode in front of a lonely surfer (dot in the middle) .

A deceiving lull in between sets.

Monday morning the swell progressively built to occasional double-overhead sets. Conditions glassed off in the afternoon, the tide dropped and the reefs lit up. The ocean called us once again for a day of celebration.

California Vibrations

2009-12-27T07:31:00.000-08:00

San Diego

A powerful north-west swell started building in Southern California on Sunday morning. Ari, Travis and I were in for a treat!

Sunny Xmas!

2009-12-25T11:41:00.000-08:00

Xmas day in Mission Beach...

Left Overs

2009-11-30T16:24:00.000-08:00

San Diego

Another gorgeous day greeted San Diego surfers after the Saturday showers...it was time to be back in the water for a Sunday session...

Liquid Dreams

2009-11-28T14:09:00.000-08:00

San Diego County

The reefs of San Diego County lit up on Friday morning with the arrival of a new north-west swell and a mild dropping tide; light Santa Ana winds kept blowing throughout the day...large sets kept pouring in; big liquid walls approached the coastline...feathering lips glistened under the warm sun...pure California gold!

Thanksgiving Day

2009-11-28T13:59:00.000-08:00

Light off-shores, blue skies and a lingering swell graced the majority of San Diego County surf spots. The absence of crowds was a plus. Point Loma looked pristine...glassy, waist to chest high and clean...

Del Mar

2009-11-15T13:20:00.000-08:00

Travis

A moderate swell hit San Diego County over the weekend. Travis and I managed to catch a few good waves in less than ideal tidal conditions. It was a fun and fairly long session, despite the obnoxious crowd factor toward the end; one too many longboarders with no skills and lots of "enthusiasm" spiced up things in the line up...especially when a dude without a leash lost his longboard on a fairly easy drop! The tanker took off like a missile...missing my head by a few inches...fortunately the guy never came back after that.

A beautiful dawn and 30 minutes of solitude in the water made the early morning wake-up worthwhile.

MR in San Diego

2009-10-20T16:44:00.000-07:00

Mark Richards showed up in San Diego for the Sacred Craft Show. It was a pleasure to see him again after so many years.

Tribute to Dick Brewer

2009-10-13T15:55:00.000-07:00

These are some shots from the week-end celebration of master shaper Dick Brewer during the Sacred Craft event in Del Mar.

Woodys at Moonlight Beach

2009-09-21T17:03:00.000-07:00

Good ol' memories

2009-08-19T17:33:00.000-07:00

Mission Beach, Ca - October 2004 (Click on picture to enlarge)

This picture triggers old memories; the 6th house on the front, from the left, is what I called home for almost 10 years. It was one of the last single-story houses on the block, with just a small addition in the back. Surfing was a daily occurrence and our lives were in tune with the breathing of the ocean...

Visions of Santosha

2009-08-07T17:27:00.000-07:00

"Somewhere...
In the midst of this ancient sea,
surrounded by the intense energy and sparkling beauty of her ocean waves,
lies the Forgotten Island of Santosha..."

Vol. 15, No. 1, 1974

This is one of my all time favorite covers from the mid-70's.

"Santosha isn't really a particular place, it's a word that has a meaning..it's a state of mind, actually, a state of being, living..." These are the opening lines of the classic article by Larry Yates featured in Surfer Magazine Vol.15 (1974) describing his personal surfing experience through some remote areas of the Indian Ocean.

Two photographers, Spider and Weaver were recruited. Also, Terese Yates and Barbara Haynes contributed with excellent photography. Joey Cabell joined Larry Yates during the trip.

Dissolving into Nor Cal Magic

2009-07-28T22:29:00.000-07:00

Big Sur (Photo: Ari Marsh)

I received a note from long time friend Ari Marsh and I thought I would share it here:

Hey folks,
How are things back in So Cal? I hope everyone is having a wonderful summer. I've been traveling around, camping, and surfing up the Northern California coast and wanted to come up for air for a moment,send out some hellos, and share some reflections.... I spent a handful of days roaming the Big Sur coast, and dropped into that space of forgetting what day of the week or month or year it supposedly is.I've had moments of being completely lost to those concepts of "who I am" or "what I do"... moments where identity dissolves into glorious sunset colors on mountain hikes, along un-named, forgotten stretches of coast.... but always something draws me back.After Big Sur, two of my deepest soul brothers on the planet and Ishared several days together. Eric, who some of you know, now lives in Santa Cruz, and my other brutha, Hodge, owns a plot of land and lives in a tiny solar-powered home that he built himself in a funky,rural coastal/mountain town north of the Golden Gate which I have promised to keep anonymous. From Hodge's zone, the three of us hiked the coastal mountains along narrow footpaths once trod by the Miwok native people to hidden, secret beaches seldom visited by outsiders.No Beacon's, no Cardiff Reef, no Swami's around these parts... no cafes, no smoothies, no cell phones, no glistening, turquoise water or emerald-colored waves to be had here.This is a stretch of coast where turkey vultures hover over uninviting, rocky beaches and feed on decomposing fish... where cold,gray mist and fog block out sunshine for days and weeks on end, and fierce north winds blow through coastal forests. The trails are lined with poison oak, which the Miwok made themselves immune to, and if you do finally reach these lost coves and beaches, the waves are definitely not playful. Surfing along this wild stretch of coast is often more about survival than anything else. It's about making peace with the cold, the elements, and your own momentary insignificance.Beyond that, surfing is about surrendering - if you can - to the terrible fear in your gut, the fear of the Great White, whom the local fishermen, sailors, and surfers call "the Landlord." The threat is real, and the part of you that is still primal can feel it within.You know you are no longer 'unconquerable human,' but potential prey to natural forces beyond your scope and control. Hodge was in the water when the last attack happened. He was 15 feet away when the Landlord surfaced with Amtrak-style power and grabbed another surfer by the torso and pulled him down, jaws and teeth snapping. This is something you never forget, he tells me, something that causes you to wake up in the middle of the night, heart thumping, drenched in sweat. These are the stories surfers share up here, as if to keep one another aware. Indeed, surfing in this region has nothing to do with flip-flops and Jack Johnson (although I love JJ's music), it's about 5mm booties, hoods, breathing through your fears while fog banks collide with mountains... it's about pondering an ocean, a world, a vastness that, at times, can be terrifyingly dark, cold, heavy, and lonely. But there's another side to it, something very mystical and tough to put into words. It has to do with a certain, fragile truth about being alive on this planet only for a short time... about the temporary, fleeting nature of our lives and our loved ones, and about once again becoming part of the mystery of natural life. It's about entering a space, both physically and psychologically, where social constructs and media-driven realities are meaningless. It's about tapping into the source, the nature within and around you, and becoming part of something incomprehensibly beautiful and wondrous. We surfed the Point and the Rock for 2 solid days with very large southern hemisphere and NW swells rocking the coast. The waves were really challenging and take-off spots were lined with huge, jagged rocks... truly intense! And although I'm still in one piece physically - save for a few bruised ribs - emotionally and perhaps spiritually I've been blown apart and scattered amongst the ancient land, vast sky, and fathomless sea......Whew..... feels good to write, to connect with friends and community,to share, and to get some thoughts off my chest....I am now up at Mount Shasta, the 14,000' plus Himalayan-style, glacial peak in Cali's extreme north. Although Shasta is definitely one of the spiritual epicenters of the West, I haven't quite adjusted to the blazing sunshine and 100 degree heat of the lower elevations. The mountain is, as always, a beautiful and inspiring site, and still has plenty of snow on it.My plan is to be back in So Cal sometime in mid-August or so. I am looking forward to connecting with everyone again, and sharing rhythm,music, kirtan, dance, drumming, tea, visits, and all the stuff that makes life goooood! Though I will be visiting the Landlord's zone again on my way back down the coast, I do indeed plan on returning home.
Deep love and blessings to all! Thanks for reading.....Ari

P.S.
Here's a verse from a beautiful poem written by a friend: "Know the path that is not a path, the home that is not a home,the world without closure, law, or restriction.
Pine for your day and your freedom
Let it usher you in and out of cycles,
And tell you when to light the fire, when to begin."

Pulse from the South

2009-07-28T21:45:00.000-07:00

Leucadia Reef - Photo: S. Chiang

"Close-outs can be fun!" - Photo: S. Chiang

"Marching to the California coast..."

A solid south swell hit Southern California on Thursday night. Water temperatures in the 70's allowed long multiple sessions for 4 days straight. It has been a pleasure to roam San Diego County, meet with friends and surf until the point of exhaustion. All the top spots pumped the whole weekend. Stoked!

Native American Sweat Lodge

2009-06-12T14:30:00.000-07:00

From Luxton Museum: "Sweat Lodge of the Plains Indian"

On June 7th I took part of a Native American Sweat Lodge ceremony up in the mountains of Escondido, California. The sweat lodge, surrounded by massive native oaks and fields of white sage, was located just a few hundred yards from Nate Harrison's cabin and its archeological site.

Nate Harrison (1823-1920) was one of San Diego County's legendary pioneers.

The ceremony was powerful and touching. The absolute darkness of the lodge combined with the intense heat and traditional native songs, chants and drumming made the whole experience very intense and meditative.

The sweat lodge was a dome-like tent made from fresh cut willow branches and covered with hides and blankets. A round pit was dug in the center. There was always a leader and a fire keeper in the ceremony. The leader was the teacher of the ceremony and the fire keeper had many different responsibilities.
The ceremony would begin with the participants entering the sweat lodge in a clockwise direction. The rocks (which had been heating outside) were brought into the lodge by the fire keeper and placed into the center pit by the leader. The door to the sweat lodge was closed and the interior heated up like a sauna. The ceremony consisted of four rounds of prayers, spiritual songs, and drumming. As the participants prayed, the leader threw water and herbs on the heated rocks. Sweet grass, cedar, and white sage were burned. After the ceremony was finished the participants exited in a clockwise direction and lay on the ground to cool their bodies. An expression often heard describing the Sweat Lodge was that you emerged 'feeling like a new born baby'. This comes from the belief that the Sweat Lodge had the spiritual powers and feelings of a woman's womb.

Mikkel Aaland reports "...the white man saw the sweat lodge, with its sacred and religious implications, as a threat. Even after the Indians were subdued, Christian missionaries and government officials systematically denied use of the sweat lodge, interrupting a continuity that lasted thousands of years. Enforcement depended upon how great a threat they felt from a particular tribe...The most popular form of sweat bathing among North American Indians was the hot rock method and its variations. These were used exclusively by tribes in the central plains, the southwest, the Great Basin and the eastern woodlands. Whether permanent, temporary or portable, they were smaller than other Indian structures, and usually domed and sometimes oblong. Nomadic tribes drove pliant boughs, such as willow, into the ground and arched them into a hemisphere, secured with withes. Stationary tribes used more substantial materials--logs and heavy bark. Temporary sweat lodges were covered with blankets or skins, while the permanent types were sealed with mud or sod. In either case, a depression was dug near the door or in the center to cradle the rocks, which were heated outside and brought in on forked sticks. Steam was produced by sprinkling the rocks from a straw broom or a hollowed buffalo horn. Although simple to build, every detail was symbolic. The Sioux, for example, see the interior of the sweat lodge as representing the womb of Mother Earth, its darkness as human ignorance, the hot stones as the coming of life, and the hissing steam as the creative force of the universe being activated... "

Happy Birthday, Charley!

2009-06-03T14:13:00.000-07:00

Charles Magel & friend Ari Marsh at the San Diego house.

Professor Charles Magel turned 89 on June 3d.

Happy Birthday, Charley!

Aerial views

2009-03-30T17:09:00.000-07:00

Pacific Beach garden

This is an interesting view of the garden with California lilac and Flannel bush in full bloom, while the native sages are gearing up for the summer.

A new bird in town

2009-03-30T14:46:00.000-07:00

Hooded Oriole with Carpenteria californica in the background.

During the last few weeks a hooded oriole showed up for a daily bath in the PB garden of Charles Magel. Orioles often breed in Southern California during the summer months, while they spend the rest of the year in Central and South America.

California Lilac

2009-02-10T14:16:00.001-08:00

Ceanothus R. H. (Pacific Beach)

In my opinion, Ceanothus "Ray Hartman" is one of the most underrated shrubs of Southern California. It is quite rare to find one in San Diego gardens.

Point Loma Wilderness

2009-02-10T11:33:00.000-08:00

Cormorant

Colony of Cormorants

Brown Pelicans

Gray Heron

A series of storms brought southerly winds and tons of rain to San Diego county, especially on Friday night. A high level of pollution due to run-off persisted along the coastal waters during the whole weekend. It was time to explore the Point Loma peninsula once again.

California Sunset

2009-02-05T16:58:00.001-08:00

Leucadia, winter 2009.

Light off-shores, sunshine, blue skies and glassy conditions have been quite consistant all winter long.

Winter Colors

2009-02-04T13:04:00.000-08:00

South African plants usually bloom in San Diego in the middle of winter. The Pacific Beach garden of Charles Magel shows an array of different Aloe species in bloom. This year was no exception.

Aloe arborescens close-up.

Aloe arborescens in bloom (Pacific Beach).

Aloes arborescens in the background.

Aloe ferox in bloom.

Broken Expectations

2009-01-18T11:00:00.000-08:00

Leucadia Sunset on Sunday evening.

" ...Currently, WNW periods are running 14-17 seconds from 270-280 degrees.In SoCal, most west facing breaks in VC, LA and SD are seeing sets running chest to head high with some pluses at standouts. OC is getting shadowed by island blockage, where size is smaller. Most south facing breaks around VC, LA, and SD are seeing sets running chest high with occasional pluses..."

" ...I'd like to first apologize to everyone for the miscalculations in this weekend's swell. After weeks of doldrums, I got a bit too excited when pounding out the numbers on my calculator and Pacific charts. Also, as is sometimes the case, the models did not reflect reality either. Swell though is along the coast now, but as most buoys show this morning, periods are starting to shorten, which will even-outsize more, leaving fewer pluses from this swell as it comes through today..."

(excerpt from Wetsand Surf Forecast)

Southern California Surf Forecast

2009-01-16T15:14:00.000-08:00

"...Saturday the 17th WNW swell will build along the California coast as waves from the Japanese system begin to fill in. This will be from 280° with periods initially coming in at 18-20 seconds. Calculating the ETA and size this morning, it looks like most all west facing breaks will see head high surf around dawn with possibly spotty sets. Note though that rogue waves running 2-4 feet overhead are likely (albeit sporadic in the early AM). As the swell fills in throughout the morning, sets with waves running 2-3 feet overhead will become more likely at west facing breaks. By the afternoon or evening, top spots could see set waves hitting DOH. Since the periods will be exceptionally long, there will no doubt be disparity in size between breaks of varying bathymetry, where slower-sloped breaks see head high size while at the same time standouts with steep-sloped bathymetry see waves running DOH. Also, since this swell is coming in at a relatively low trajectory (~280°), south facing breaks should pick up a decent amount of wrap. The lengthy periodicity also means power, so heavy waves can be expected. Rip currents will also be a major concern, so caution is strongly advised. Winds should be lightly offshore in the morning, possibly to 10+ at wind-prone spots, and then turn lightly onshore in the afternoon. Tide will be low around 9:15 AM at about 1.5 feet, and high around 2:40 PM at about 2.9 feet. "

(Excerpt from Wetsand surf report)

Tide Pools

2009-01-13T17:24:00.000-08:00

Winter Holidays

2008-12-26T23:37:00.000-08:00

Charles Magel
Photo: J. Berndt

In company of the Professor...

Photo: J. Berndt

An evening at the beach house...

Photo: J. Berndt

Rain, blustery winds, a messy ocean and cold nights set the mood for a cozy evening around the fireplace, eating nurturing food and enjoying the company of dear friends ...

Peaceful Holidays to all!

Night Shift

2008-12-08T10:06:00.000-08:00

On Saturday night Ari and I surfed North Reef at night. It was kind of magical. We even smelled some Indian incense in the darkenss of the line-up; we had no clue where it could have come from.
Derreck Ferrar once wrote" To call the night-surfing experience “cosmic” is as much fact as it is surf-speak cliché. It is a fundamentally celestial pursuit, possible only when the moon—that cool, radiant muse of poets, shamans and lovers through the ages—is in her monthly fullness, with no veil of cloud hiding her face. And when you paddle out at night, the ocean itself resembles the void of space—a vast, enveloping blackness that renders you weightless.
Night surfing is predominantly a communal activity—after all, no one really wants to be out there alone among things that go munch in the night.
Catching a wave at night requires a kind of extra-sensory perception. You stare into the darkness, scanning for hints—the wave crest that glimmers higher and longer than its neighbors, the trough that is deeper and darker. In the darkness, sound is amplified; your ears pick up every slosh as you paddle, the wet crash of the falling lip, the satisfying swoosh of your board cutting across the face. But in the end, you feel the wave as much as you see or hear it. You just have to let go and trust your gut about where to be in order to snag it."

Dawn Patrol

2008-12-06T09:44:00.000-08:00

Travis and I reunited for the first dawn patrol in probably six months or more. We chose our usual spot in Point Loma. Chest to shoulder high, clean, glassy, fairly consistent with 3/4 wave sets reeling off the southern tip of the reef on a slow dropping tide lingering at + 3 ft; only 2 other guys out.

Despite the not ideal tidal conditions, we experienced 60 + yard rides for 2 solid hours.

Travis was able to drive is 5'11" quad with ease. Light off-shores kept the walls wide open for exhilarating rides.

4 SUPs showed up at the end of our session leaving a small blemish on a great session.

It was great to see Travis after so long.

Leaf Of Change

2008-10-19T19:08:00.000-07:00

Cyathea cooperi

Cool nights and crisp air in the morning are the first signs that fall is under way in San Diego; California natives are soaking up the nocturnal moisture. The Australian ferns seem to enjoy the mild night temps as well; last night I captured on camera the unfurling of a new leaf (Cyathea cooperi).

Scent of a Swell

2008-10-07T14:45:00.000-07:00

Photo: Cliffsrider

The second north-west swell of the season rolled into San Diego County on Sunday afternoon. The Cliffs lit up with occasional 10 foot faces. I enjoyed the beautiful weather, sunny skies and fairly warm waters. It was a brief session due to the crowd factor but extremely rewarding as far as wave count. It is kind of strange to surf small stuff all summer long and suddenly find myself dropping into beefy walls and drawing long lines on big open faces.

Surfer Vol. 14, No. 5, 1973

2008-09-01T13:44:00.000-07:00

Photo: Craig Peterson

In 1973 publisher and editor Steve Pezman released the December/January issue of Surfer magazine Volume 14, No. 5.

In my opinion, this is one of the most soulful covers ever produced by SURFER Magazine.

The issue featured the 3rd installment of the Peterson/Naughton travel journals on their journey back from Central America to Southern California, after 5 months of intense exploration.

A major "discovery" on their way back was Petacalco, an intense right tubing wave that later would be destroyed by the harbor expansion at Lazaro, farther north.

Craig and Kevin were heading home to be greeted by news of Nixon's political troubles, the Watergate scandal, gas shortages and the ongoing Vietnam War.

Also in this issue was a spread on Europe, including the first photos of the legendary Spanish left point at Mundaca, and an article by Reno Abellira on Western Australia.

Leucadia Sessions

2008-08-28T22:53:00.000-07:00

Shaper Bill Shrosbree with one of his creations: 6' 8" Shros Egg.

Photo: Stephen Chiang

A few weeks ago we scored a fun session in Leucadia; the vehicle of choice turned out to be a 6'8" round pin shaped by Bill Shrosbree. The board flies!

Shros-Moonlight Twin

2008-08-28T15:19:00.000-07:00

Shaper Bill Shrosbree collaborated with Moonlight Glassing in the early 80's. The picture above shows a classic 5'10" twin fin from that era.

Chapman-Brewer

2008-08-25T09:53:00.000-07:00

Brewer Surfboards.

In the 70's legendary surfer Owl Chapman started to collaborate with master shaper Dick Brewer. The partnership gave birth to the classic logo "Underground Hawaii".

The Brewer is back!

2008-08-24T18:55:00.000-07:00

Ari is back in Leucadia after the usual summer retreat in Mount Shasta. It was a pleasure to see his faithful 7'0" Brewer single-fin back in North County after such a long hiatus. The board was stored in West LA for many years but it's now back for those days when a "single fin" feels just right...

End of an era

2008-08-24T18:30:00.000-07:00

The Grotto is shutting down.

The Grotto

Vintage skateboards on sale.

The classic dude is gone! He was a faithful at the Grotto!

The announced closure of The Longboard Grotto represents the end of an era; it is symbolic of the economic crisis that is affecting us all. I doubt there'll ever be another Grotto. It was a true refuge of surf culture; it will be missed.

Bustin' Down The Door

2008-08-15T18:17:00.000-07:00

Shaun Tomson showed up at 7 pm for the screening of "Bustin' Down The Door" at La Paloma Theatre in Encinitas. His visit was absolutely unexpected. I was stoked.

I enjoyed every minute of it.

Vintage Brewer

2008-08-05T16:40:00.000-07:00

Photo: Dan Merkel

It's no secret, I love Brewer Surfboards. At the Grotto in Leucadia they bitched at me for taking a few shots of their inventory... I don't think I was stealing or harming anybody... but they've never been particularly friendly over there, and I guess their reaction was to be expected!

In 2000 Drew Kampion wrote: "In the evolutionary scale of surfboard design, think of Dick Brewer as the missing link. In a few critical years in the late '60s, Brewer was responsible for making us want to trade in our go-karts for race cars when his followers streaked deep through the hollows of Honolua Bay, Sunset Beach and Rincon, Puerto Rico, on pocket-rocket space sticks that defined the new lines of performance surfing for years to come. Brewer, a self-proclaimed shaping guru, served as a teacher and an inspirer of a radical band of young surfers during those radical times. His apprentices and team riders read like a who's who of the era: Reno Abellira, Sam Hawk, Owl Chapman, Gerry Lopez, Jock Sutherland, Jeff Hakman, Jimmy Lucas, Buddy Boy Keohe, Leslie Potts, Larry Strada, Gary Chapman -- and the list goes on. Brewer has clearly been one of the most influential surfboard shapers of all time.His home and shaping bay near Hanalei on Kauai are a long way from his birthplace in Bimidji, Minnesota. His father was a second-generation engineer and machinist, and working with tools and mechanical principles came naturally to young Brewer. When the family moved to California, the boy discovered cars, radio-controlled airplanes and surfing. As a skilled machinist, it was only a matter of time before he took things into his own hands. His planes were fast and controllable, finalists in national competitions, and his surfboards were beautiful -- right from the start.Brewer moved to Oahu in 1960, earned his credibility in the winter waves at Waimea, Sunset and Makaha, and soon opened a surf shop in Haleiwa -- Surfboards Hawaii, the first on the North Shore. He filled scuba tanks and sold Dewey Weber and Scholl boards, a Walt Phillips label -- both from Venice, California, and shaped by Harold Iggy -- and began to shape boards."Bob Shepherd was my real teacher," Brewer said in a 1999 interview. "He taught me the techniques." Like Joe Quigg, Shepherd was all about natural curves and concaves. Brewer acknowledges Pat Curren as an influence as well. Synthesizing the best available wisdom with feedback from his test pilots, by the winter of 1962, the Brewer Surfboards Hawaii gun was the most in-demand big-wave equipment on the North Shore. Entering into partnership with California's John Price, Surfboards Hawaii were soon being made and sold in California, but when a business conflict developed between the two men, Brewer left the company.Almost immediately, he signed a contract with Hobie Alter in Dana Point to produce a series of signature models, the Hobie Dick Brewer guns. He shaped 88 of them, then went on to do production and signature work for Harbour, Carbonel, Surfline Hawaii, Bing and others. Brewer's foiled rail design and his advocacy of lightweight boards, even for big waves, set him apart from most other shapers of the time.In 1966, Brewer shaped Bing Pipeliners, Island Semis and Big Island Guns. He was showcased in Bing ads in 1967 and 1968 as the master who created David Nuuhiwa's lightweight pintail-model boards.In mid-1967, Brewer relocated to Maui and set up business as Lahaina Surfing Design (LSD), where he set to work developing shorter, lighter guns and then "mini-guns" with the help of an adventurous team of test pilots. It was in Lahaina that he met Aussie Bob McTavish (who was test-driving his shorter vee-bottom boards at Honolua Bay with World Champ Nat Young), and the two shapers fed off one another.The Brewer mini-guns featured teardrop outlines, down rails, flat bottoms with subtle foils and vees and narrow pintails. Among the first shortboards (1967), they were a sensation and proved to be more lasting than the square-tailed Australian vee-bottoms. Reno Abellira made a huge impression on an under-7-foot Brewer mini in the finals of the 1968 World Contest in Puerto Rico.Although associated with the surfing's experimental drug scene in the '60s and '70s as an advocate of Eastern meditation, vegetarianism and psychedelic exploration, Brewer continued to innovate throughout the period, including the hyper-kicked nose (1969), the tri-fin surfboard design (1971) and the modern big-wave gun -- introduced in the mid-'70s.Located on the North Shore during the '70s, Brewer helped launch the shaping careers of several of his proteges, including Gerry Lopez, Reno Abellira and Terry Fitzgerald. He eventually began windsurfing and established himself as one of the premier shapers of windsurfing boards, too.He eventually returned to set up shop on Kauai, this time on the north shore near Hanalei, where he continues to shape boards for customers all over the world. His 9'6" thruster gun (19-1/4" wide, 3-1/4" thick with a Derrick Doerner template) has become the standard board for intermediate surf, and he's made more than 350 of them in the past dozen years. Since 1994, he has worked with Laird Hamilton, Derrick Doerner and other tow-in surfers to create high-tech boards for the giant outer reefs of Hawaii. Recently, he has begun to produce surfboards and licensed sportswear under the name Plumeria. Although chronically hampered by failed business partnerships and legal struggles over the ownership of his own name, Dick Brewer's reputation for making some of the world's finest surfboards has endured. He is a guru and master of the craft of surfboard shaping."

4th in Leucadia

2008-07-06T19:06:00.000-07:00

Good weather, endless waves, great friends, nice dinners, and 11 hours of surfing in 4 days will be remembered for a long time...it has been a wonderful Independence Day weekend!

The ocean delivered a slew of steady moderate swells.

Ari, Jaime and I spent quality time in and out of the water. Ari gracefully landed me his vintage 6'7" Caster, channel bottom, single-fin. I had a blast on it!!! It's nice to have dear friends back to California and in my life...

Skip Frye/Andy Davis New Art Gallery

2008-06-28T21:16:00.000-07:00

On Saturday night I attended the opening of Surfindian, the new Surf Art Galllery on Mission Blvd. in Pacific Beach. It was a nice gathering and an interesting celebration of local surf culture.
I always appreciated Andy Davis work and I finally had the opportunity to enjoy really up close some of his creations on canvas.

Shros II

2008-06-21T21:42:00.000-07:00

Shaper and neighbor Bill Shrosbree finally showed me one of his latest creations.
A modified version of the Shros Model II is a round-pin tail 7" foot tri-fin with influences from the late seventies and mid eighties. Gerry Lopez and Dick Brewer templates were a clear inspiration for this board.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, CHARLEY!

2008-06-03T14:32:00.001-07:00

Charles Magel, Animal Rights pioneer and Anti-war activist in the early 70's celebrated his 88th birthday in San Diego, California..just a few blocks away from 3363 Ocean Front Walk.

Hanging with Ari and Gerry

2008-05-25T11:42:00.000-07:00

It was a pleasant Saturday morning hanging in Cardiff with Ari and Gerry .

Surf is where you find it....

Gordon & Smith

2008-05-19T21:19:00.000-07:00

G&S 7'8" Single Fin, Replica.

Photo: Cliffsrider

After a few weeks of lousy weather, a phantom swell gracefully made its appearance along the San Diego coast. A jetstream of high pressure kept conditions prestine and water temps in the upper 70's. The unusual wind absence allowed me to surf in the early afternoon hours: glassy, chest high, perfect lines softly breaking all over the county. No suits needed.

It turned out to be the ideal weekend to test the 7'8" Gordon & Smith Single fin for what eventually turned out to be a full retro-fest when Ari and Eric joined me with their vintage "tools of the trade" (Single Fin Hayward & Single Fin Caster). The final count gave one session on Saturday (Cliffs) and 2 sessions on Sunday (Cliffs and PB for glass-off).

Creatures of the Sea

2008-04-28T17:54:00.000-07:00

Article by Ari Marsh:

First known shark attack fatality in North County, San Diego. Believed to be a 12-17 foot Great White. Early press conference footage shortly after attack, from Fletcher Cove in Solana Beach with Deputy Fire Chief, Mayor, and Lifeguard Captain. Victim was Dr. David Martin, 66 year old swimmer, April, 25, 2008.

It was a beautiful morning in North County, almost pristine, with warm weather and small, glassy surf. I was in Encinitas, near Moonlight Beach, when Coast Guard helicopters began flying up and down the coast broadcasting a shocking announcement. "There has been a fatal shark attack in the area. Exit the ocean immediately!" I was stunned, having lived most of my life by the ocean in Southern California, and being a surfer for the last 25 years, I've never experienced something like this. As the eerie helicopter announcements continued, surfers and swimmers evacuated, leaving this pristine morning strangely vacant. Details surfaced soon after, near the site of the attack in Solana Beach. Apparently, the attack happened at approximately 7:00 a.m, Friday morning, April 25, 2008, near a surf break known as Tabletops, near Fletcher Cove in Solana Beach. A group of strong swimmers in training for a triathlon were approximately 100-150 yards off the coast, when one of the men, 66 year old Dr. David Martin, a healthy, retired veterinarian, began screaming for help. His friends nearby him in the ocean described the attack as "absolutely ferocious." Dr. Martin was pulled to the shore by his friends in an attempt to save him, but died almost immediately. His injuries were reportedly very severe, leaving his legs "mangled." It is believed he died from loss of blood due to the extreme nature of the attack. Experts have estimated, based on examination of the wounds, the shark was a 12-17' Great White.This is the first ever fatal shark attack in North County San Diego history. During the last few days, there have also been reports of a baby shark in the nearby area, and several seal pups have appeared stranded on shore.County authorities have issued a 72 hour advisory for all swimmers and surfers to stay out of the water.Blessings go out to David Martin and his family and loved ones. Yes indeed, when we enter into the ocean, we enter a grand, immense wilderness that we still yet scarcely understand. Peace to all. Enjoy life, appreciate the moment, and savor what you have while you've got it.--Ari Marsh

Hyles lineata

2008-04-13T13:48:00.000-07:00

I was able to photograph an hummingbird moth (Hyles lineata) during the weekend and it turned out to be more difficult than I thought, given the insane speed of the tiny bugger!

Julian Donahue, a lepidopterist, provides the following fact list on Hyles lineata: "1. This is So. Cal's most common hawk moth, and are especially common in the deserts, where hundreds of moths can come to a single light in one night. 2. In "good" desert years, the larvae can be so abundant that desert highways are slick with their crushed bodies. 3. In the desert, larvae mostly prefer evening primroses (Camissonia and Oenothera), which are also in the fuschsia family (Onagraceae)--demonstrating once again that moths are excellent botanists! Tuttle (2007, The Hawk Moths of North America) also reports that in the West the larvae also feed on members of the plant family Nyctaginaceae [e.g., Abronia (sand verbena) and Mirabilis (four o'clock)]. 4. Native Americans have harvested the larvae as food. 5. United States' most widely distributed hawk moth, occuring in every state except Alaska, as far north as southern Canada, from Nova Scotia to British Columbia. 6. Pupation occurs in a loose cocoon of silk on or just below the surface of the ground. 7. Larvae have several color forms, ranging from green to black. 8. Two other related species in North America: the more widely distributed but much more northern Hyles gallii, which also occurs in Europe and feeds on similar hostplants, and Hyles euphorbiae, a native of Europe and Eurasia that has been introduced with only limited success to control pest species of spurge (Euphorbia species) in north central and northeastern U.S. and adjacent Canada. "

Malibu

2008-04-09T19:06:00.000-07:00

Dudleyas in the crevice.

Dedromecon hartfordii - Island Bush Poppy.

Boulders near the top.

Lizard in the Malibu canyon.

White Ceanothus in bloom.

The stunning beauty of the Santa Monica mountains offered an alternative to the flat conditions of the Malibu area.

Hawaii

2008-04-02T18:50:00.000-07:00

A-frames on the North Shore

Henri cruising away on the South Shore

Sunset

Laniakea

Chuns Reef

Departed on March 21 from LAX to Oahu. Returned to LA on April 2d. Surfed Threes and Flies on the South Shore. Surfed Right Overs and Left Overs on the North Shore. Had great time with Henri hosting me for 12 days of surf, good food and laughs.

Casualties

2008-03-19T20:32:00.000-07:00

Sometimes things don't go quite right out there in the line up. A freak set snapped one of Ari's boards in two sharp pieces. The Pacific Ocean can take lives, sometimes....

Pick of the month

2008-03-10T10:32:00.000-07:00

Cyathea cooperi, Australian tree fern on the south east side.

Fremontia "Pacific Sunset" and Ceanothus "Ray Hartman" in the background.

Lampranthus, in the front, California sage in the back.

California Lilac and Flannel Bush are my "pick of the month" for March, although the Southafrican Lampranthus aurantiacus is screaming for attention with the usual orange carpet.

California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) just started their blooming season as well.

Soul riding

2008-03-03T17:13:00.000-08:00

Ari Marsh back into the flow (Leucadia's reef). ( Photo: D. Purpus)

Cutting back

2008-03-03T17:12:00.000-08:00

Ari Marsh. (Photo: D. Purpus)

An old friend is back

2008-03-03T17:11:00.000-08:00

Spring colors in Pacific Beach.

Writer and good friend Ari Marsh is back to California for good. We celebrated with a 2-day surf binge. On Saturday, after my quick and rewarding dawn patrol at CH with Larry, we met in Leucadia around 2 pm for a celebratory surf marathon. Conditions glassed off and we scored good waves at South Reef.

We met in the evening with Nat Young at the Patagonia Store in Cardiff for the slide show; then we closed the evening with Thai food in Encinitas.

On Sunday we started off with another session at CH around 9 Am. Two swells crossing from the North and the South made it for shifty conditions and unpredictable sets.

We surfed alone for about 15 minutes before being forced to get out. Ari broke a side fin on a manouvre that didn't quite pan out, but we were motivated to get back on track as soon as possible. After a quick stop in OB, and a new set of fins in our hands, we bolted down to the Cliffs for a second session in head high conditions . We surfed solo for about 45 minutes. The 6' 10" Christenson proved again to be the board of choice in big surf. It is a solid stick, although shaped with not much finesse; it shines in gnarly conditions, especially when strong currents, chop and high winds require a strong drive.

It has been a great weekend, filled with waves and lots of sunshine.

Riding giants

2008-02-25T07:03:00.000-08:00

SG - Inside section

LC - set wave...15 feet or so?

Indicators - Unridden.

Indicators - Close out

Ladera Street - Huge.

On Sunday the surf rised from knee high to 15 foot faces in one hour. It was one of the most powerful experiences I witnessed in California waters.

Liquid green

2008-02-18T10:32:00.000-08:00

Sunset Cliffs (Photo: Joe Ewing)

Sunday morning, head high to 2 feet overhead on sets, sunny, light off-shores: I couldn't ask for anything better! This morning I caught one of the best rides of the whole season: a screaming liquid wall, approximately 100 yards, slightly overhead...the acceleration on such a vertical wall was impressive...I was speechless afterwards. There was a heavy crowd at CH at 10 Am but the tide was dictating when I could go out. My foot feels much better and I have hopes to be back in business by next weekend....

Another amazing weekend

2008-02-16T10:14:00.000-08:00

The surf was pouring on the reefs again, light off-shores and outstanding conditions... I had to paddle out around 10 am on a dropping tide. It was another "ankle test" and the results were fairly positive. I decided to go out at "S" and it turned out to be a good choice. I planned to catch just a couple of waves and that's what I did. The first one was one of the best waves I caught in a long time. The first 20 yards went by smoothly on a fairly open face, then the wave completely changed its nature hitting the inside reef! It became a nice vertical wall with heaving sections almost barreling over my head...I sped up through the last 50 yards making section after section until I was able to gracefully kicked out off the back. The pin tail 6' 10" Christenson turned out to be a great choice for the conditions. The thickness of the board absorbed all kind of vibrations giving a rest to my injured back foot.

Winter color

2008-02-14T22:52:00.001-08:00

Aloe arborescens (far right) is reaching its blooming apex while Salvia apiana and Salvia clevelandii (In the background) are getting ready for spring time.

You should have been here an hour ago!

2008-02-10T22:33:00.000-08:00

San Diego County: sunny, clean & glassy.

Wind Swell

2008-02-05T21:07:00.000-08:00

I always thought there is something very zen-like in paddling out on a solid day, catching just one wave, and coming in right afterwards. If I'm out...I wanna stay out as long as I possibly can. On Saturday morning things were going to be different for once. I paddled out in solid head-high surf... a typical wind-swell with shifty peaks, strong rips and lots of water moving. Side-shore winds gave texture to the water, which made paddling quite a struggle.
It was one of those days when it's good to have experience at your local break and positioning becomes a crucial part of the game. The nature of the swell forces late take-offs, especially on a medium tide that still feels too high for good surfing.
I waited for 20 minutes in the line up at CH, constantly moving to figure out where to sit; only one guy out, about 50 yards to the south. He had the same problem in deciding where to position himself.
Finally a good one came to me, I paddled hard into it, angled the board, felt the lift and dropped!
As soon as as my back foot landed on the board I felt an excruciating pain on the side, right under the ankle bone, and I knew right away it was over! I managed to close my ride with a nice exit off the back and started paddling toward the shore. It was the end of my session and I'm sure it will take time to heal properly. I experienced the zen of surfing, although against my will, and it felt good after all...I realized that just one wave can really make my day :)

Aloes in bloom

2008-01-31T06:30:00.000-08:00

Aloe arborescens.

It is that time of the year....Aloes are putting out quite a show!

Rain on the horizon

2008-01-30T19:40:00.000-08:00

I knew about the rain and I knew I had to be quick. At the end it worked out great! The storm turned out to be slow moving and my fears of trashed conditions on Saturday morning were soon left behind. The first quick session at CH had to be short because of the fast rising tide. I was in and out with surgical precision. I caught 3 perfect waves, smooth and glassy, just before the tide started shutting down the reef; waist to chest, perfectly lined up. The ankle is still killing me but I can surf better than the last week. I stayed at the Cliffs for the restoration project and it was great satisfaction seeing the young Torrey pines to be installed. In the afternoon I went for a second session on a dropping tide. It was quite crowded and my wave karma was definetely off. I found myself in the wrong spot most of the time, although I was able to catch a phenomenal right-hander that made my day. It was a pleasure to see the Shros egg smoothly carving into that glassy wall! Some waves were considerably bigger than a few hours before, almost overhead at times. I met Brad and Susan while I was climbing back to my truck...that was quite a coincidence! All in all another great day of surfing!

Another session with Brad

2008-01-21T22:14:00.000-08:00

Sunday has been a bit mellower than the day before! Size increased in the morning but it didn't translate in better surf. A cold front from the West brought breezy conditions, cold air and clouds. I joined Roland, Bill and Dede for a quick morning paddle. PB Drive was closing out for the most part, except for the usual few corners. The extreme high tide made things difficult... and the S. 6'8" turned out to be too small of a board. I couldn't paddle into the wave, there was too much water moving and I was left behind most of the time. The ankle I injured the day before troubled me to the point I was not sure I had the capability to surf again during the day; I eventually made it to the Cliffs to take advantage of the fast dropping tide and the lack of crowds ( football game starting at 12 PM emptied line-ups everywhere). It turned out to be quite good, Brad & Susan had a blast. Unfortunately my back foot was in pain and landing on the board became an excruciating ordeal. I realized for the first time how we rely on our back foot for the most important manoeuvres. It was a learning experience and a lesson in body mechanics. I blew many waves and I'm sure people thought I couldn't surf , which was particularly humiliating. Brad surfed amazingly well on a 7' 2" twin fin, swallow tail; a difficult board to ride due to a flat rocker and parallel hard rails but he made it look easy!

Endless Sessions

2008-01-19T19:22:00.000-08:00

Saturday morning, San Diego County. (Photos : Wil Phillips)

I don't remember spending so much time in the water on a winter day! 3 sessions in a single day for approximately 7 hours marked one of my longest performances in Southern California waters.

The morning started with a few waves in Pacific Beach on a longboard, waist high or so, extremely consistent conditions and well-shaped waves by a full moon morning tide; in one specific occasion 2 dolphins took off behind me as I was dropping in.... it was dolphin-fest out there!.

At 10:30 I got to meet Brad and Susan at the Cliffs. The surf picked up on a dropping tide, waist to chest, glassy, light off-shores, 80-yard perfect reelers kept pouring in for 3 hours straight.

Brad showed phenomenal foot-work on an old 9'6 single fin nose-rider. Waves were absolutely flawless and I witnessed Brad's phenomenal nose-riding. He got the place wired fairly quickly.

I didn't mind surfing my old long-board but the conditions were calling for my 6'8" egg. It would have been a blast. The left at Subs threw few barrels as well.

After a quick break for lunch we paddled back out in the afternoon, I brought my egg, although the crowd at Subs got a bit out of control and it became difficult to score good waves. Fortunately I was able to take advantage of a perfect left and getting tubed in the final hollow section! That made my day!....the surf kept coming all day long: I remember racing on a beautiful backlit emerald wall and thinking that it would be difficult to live without such beautiful surroundings..truly special!

We finally left around 5 pm without much energy left in us.

Hummingbird

2008-01-15T07:42:00.000-08:00

Costa hummingbird resting on Pittosporum undulatum.

Hummingbirds are a constant presence in Pacific Beach gardens.

Afternoon delight

2008-01-14T13:14:00.000-08:00

(Photo: Kathy Krane)

My friend Henri visited from Europe on his way back to Oahu. After a quick and uneventful session on Friday afternoon, we paddled out on Saturday in solid overhead at 6 Am. We were joined by Travis, Art and Allister. Unfortunately, a fast rising tide made conditions less than ideal...too much water moving didn't allow to generate proper speed down the face. For different reasons we were all out of shape. Travis was virtually dry since last April, Henri was jet-legged and I was unusually weak. My session can be counted as one of the worse of the last 12 months and for no apparent reason. It is true I hadn't surfed in 12 days, but I don't think that's the main reason. Fortunately I was able to regain some dignity on Sunday afternoon. I paddled out at CH on a dropping tide in the early afternoon. The Cliffs were going off with light off-shores and occasional 10 foot sneaker sets! It reminded me of one of those classic 2-page spreads in Surfer mag issues of the late 70's...the quintessential Southern California winter experience: emerald feathering A-frames on a glassy afternoon! I was able to use the experience gained the day before and drive the Shros 6'8" with more resolution. Glad I was able to go out and catch a few bombs on such a beautiful day.

Big

2008-01-12T13:08:00.000-08:00

Sunset Cliffs. Saturday afternoon.

Surf Forecast

2008-01-10T22:46:00.000-08:00

"Saturday the 12th should see quite an increase in NW swell from a significantly sized storm that, on Tuesday, was sitting mid way between Japan and Hawaii at a fairly low latitude (30-35N). This storm has held its expected trajectory, maintaining a near-direct westerly angle from us until high pressure near our area pushed it northward into the Gulf. This nudge to the north occurred about 1500 miles from our shores, keeping the nastiness away from our area while allowing long-period (16-18 second) swell to come our way from around 280+ degrees. As for size, most west facing breaks (not affected by island blockage) can expect DOH sets with south facing breaks seeing sets chest to head high. ETA for the bulk of this swell is expected predawn north of LA, dawn to early morning in LA, then mid to late morning in SD.

Conditions are, so far, looking quite well for this swell. Tide of course will recuperate to more normal levels, and weather models have downgraded the Santa Ana. At this point, it looks like offshore winds will be quite mild for at least the AM on Saturday, picking up though some on Sunday."

(excerpt from Wetsand forecast 01-11-08)

Birds

2008-01-07T11:56:00.000-08:00

Sparrow feeding on Sedum Burrito.

Hummingbird feeding on Calliandra haematocephala.

Single fin circa 1975

2008-01-04T11:09:00.000-08:00

In the mid-seventies shaper Bill Shrosbree was creating under legendary label Sunset Surfboards.