The Calm Before the Storm
Surf Forecast:
Today (Thursday) is the proverbial calm before the storm as a meager mix of NW and SW is keeping things fairly small today. That significant NW'er though is bearing down on the region for some impressively sized surf by the weekend. More NW is riding behind this particular swell for a continued trend of hefty northern hemisphere swell through the beginning of next week. Overall, the swell energy in the water shows NW periods averaging 12-13 seconds from 305 degrees. SW energy is nearly nonexistent.
Additionally, this swell's long periods, and the sometimes-spotty nature of the steep angled NW energy can produce some deceiving lulls at times; many waves may look surfable, while every now and then sets that wrap in well to the coast could produce waves far greater in size.
Saturday the 9th the entire coast will see the impact from that massive storm we started tracking last week spinning out of the western Pacific. On Saturday, we're looking at size running 10-12 feet on the faces along west facing breaks. Standouts could even see some set waves running a little bigger at times. Direct south facing breaks should see size running chest to head high, bigger though at breaks with SW'erly exposure.
On Sunday the 10th, this NW'er will back down slightly with size still running about three feet overhead to DOH around west facing breaks.
Monday the 11th this NW'er is expected to be replaced by another NW swell we started tracking in our last report. Although still based on 48h+ models, this one is looking today to be strong enough to keep face heights around 10 feet or so around west facing breaks. Conservatively speaking, size should be at least 3-feet overhead, but DOH is more like it--according to this morning's models.
Tuesday the 12th this NW'er is expected to stick around with surf running 2-3 feet overhead. Basing this on 48h models though, we'll need to see how this plays out over the next few days.
Wednesday the 13th the NW should back down, but size should still hover around head high to a foot or so overhead.
Thursday the 14th looks similar, but possibly about 10-15% smaller.
Our next NW swell is being tracked for the 17th. Models feel that another hefty storm will spin out of the western Pacific and head our way. Basing this on 120h+ models, it's far too early to call with a high degree of confidence this morning, but we'll stay on top of it and keep you posted as things progress.
Today (Thursday) is the proverbial calm before the storm as a meager mix of NW and SW is keeping things fairly small today. That significant NW'er though is bearing down on the region for some impressively sized surf by the weekend. More NW is riding behind this particular swell for a continued trend of hefty northern hemisphere swell through the beginning of next week. Overall, the swell energy in the water shows NW periods averaging 12-13 seconds from 305 degrees. SW energy is nearly nonexistent.
Additionally, this swell's long periods, and the sometimes-spotty nature of the steep angled NW energy can produce some deceiving lulls at times; many waves may look surfable, while every now and then sets that wrap in well to the coast could produce waves far greater in size.
Saturday the 9th the entire coast will see the impact from that massive storm we started tracking last week spinning out of the western Pacific. On Saturday, we're looking at size running 10-12 feet on the faces along west facing breaks. Standouts could even see some set waves running a little bigger at times. Direct south facing breaks should see size running chest to head high, bigger though at breaks with SW'erly exposure.
On Sunday the 10th, this NW'er will back down slightly with size still running about three feet overhead to DOH around west facing breaks.
Monday the 11th this NW'er is expected to be replaced by another NW swell we started tracking in our last report. Although still based on 48h+ models, this one is looking today to be strong enough to keep face heights around 10 feet or so around west facing breaks. Conservatively speaking, size should be at least 3-feet overhead, but DOH is more like it--according to this morning's models.
Tuesday the 12th this NW'er is expected to stick around with surf running 2-3 feet overhead. Basing this on 48h models though, we'll need to see how this plays out over the next few days.
Wednesday the 13th the NW should back down, but size should still hover around head high to a foot or so overhead.
Thursday the 14th looks similar, but possibly about 10-15% smaller.
Our next NW swell is being tracked for the 17th. Models feel that another hefty storm will spin out of the western Pacific and head our way. Basing this on 120h+ models, it's far too early to call with a high degree of confidence this morning, but we'll stay on top of it and keep you posted as things progress.
posted by Botanist at 9:55 PM
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