Rainy Afternoon

Sunday - side shore winds before the storm -
The forecast warned me about the incoming storm and I should have played differently. It would have been better to go surf at dawn for a quick session before the extreme mid-morning tide hit. This season has been so forgiving (with persisting glassy conditions through-out the day) I planned for an afternoon session instead. Unfortunately the nasty on shores kicked in around 11 am and I was left with storm surf at the Cliffs. I paddled out alone in crazy side-shore howling winds...it was victory at sea! Dark grey clouds projected a sinister light on the ocean surface. I managed to drop into 3 head high waves and carve some nice turns into the blown out left walls. It was messy and unpredictable.... but it felt good being in the water nonetheless...