Wind Swell

I set my mind about surfing on Saturday morning regardless the possible "rain-induced" pollution. I figured that surfing at CH. shouldn't have been that bad after all. The military base keeps the area fairly undeveloped. The weather was pretty good in the morning. A light off-shore breeze gave some texture to the surface. It was a classic wind-swell with high frequency waves, no lulls, shoulder high or better. We usually surf clean ground swells in SD, I had a hard time to adjust to the different scenario…waves popped up with shifty peaks, positioning was very difficult, and even the take-offs felt uncomfortable. Waves didn't have any intrinsic power, despite good size, therefore take offs were super late in order to make the drop, and at that point I had to tackle a vertical wall, which was quite sketchy. I knew that getting stuck in the inside meant paddling forever to get back to the line up…sure enough it happened right at the end of my session...it took me 30 minutes to get back to the line up! It would have been nice to have some company today...