Fun In The Cold

Travis and I met at 5:45 Am for an early session at the usual spot. It looked fairly small from the bluff and we decided to try CH regardless the disappointing visual check. It turned out to be surprisingly fun. I locked into some steep chest high walls, racing down the line at full speed and feeling the progressive accelaration of the board. I loved it. Travis focused on the left and snapped impressive turns with surgical precision. On one particular wave he snapped so hard it looked like he spit a bucket of water in the air! The water was cold and the morning clouds didn't help much. We were freezing but we were having fun. Only 2 other guys out. At the end I rode the white water in and I ended up on the infamous evil ledge, always surfacing at low tide. Fortunately I saved the board from any damage.