Independence Day
We knew that a south facing spot would have worked better but we were willing to trade less quality for solitude. It worked out. We surfed waist/chest high waves until 8:30 am.
The reef gets very interesting on a low tide. I enjoy the challange to drop into fast and hollow waves breaking on the shallow rock bottom. I positioned myself at the south end of the "horse-shoe" racing down the line on the fast right hander shooting off toward "the evil ledge". The water was warm, probably 70 degrees and the surface was smooth. A few highlights: I got deep into the pocket of a semi-tubing right getting my head covered for 15 yards before kicking out. On another dredging right hander I got into the tube but I couldn't make it out. This was one of my best sessions of the year as far as performance, tecnique and capacity of reading the spot to get the best out of it. I met Travis on my way back to the beach. He was paddling out.
Board of choice today was the Christenson 6'10".
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