Scent of Fall

I have been waiting for weeks but I've finally got it right! Today Steve, Art and I sneaked into Camp Pendleton to be greeted by perfect hollow A-frame sets consistently breaking along the shore. There is something magical in paddling out at the crack of dawn with light off-shores, a solid swell, and the scent of the chapparal behind.

After years of surfing I developed an incredible appreciation for the subtleties of a session like this. I know how hard it is to get all the factors lined-up....wind, tides, wave size, crowds, swell angle, etc....as a matter of fact it lasted only half an hour but I enjoyed every minute of it! The crisp morning air announced the change of season. Fall is coming!

The first wave of the morning tastes always special to me! I paddled straight into the peak, I swung the board toward the beach and I dropped into a hollow left tubing on the shallow inside, I joyfully tucked in while the lip folded over me! Conditions changed quickly with an incoming tide. Close-outs became frequent; we managed to find some corners and got the best out of it.

At 12 pm I decided to treat myself. I drove to Church's for a second session, which turned out to be fun and not particularly crowded: glassy conditions, high tide, and fairly long rides in the waist to chest high range closed this unusual surf marathon. Stoked!