Waves

Afternoon surf somewhere in San Diego County.

I have been dreaming of a day like this for so long! The scenery from the line up has been absolutely stunning from early in the morning: light off-shores, feathering peaks everywhere and glassy conditions. The swell brought consistency, size and power overnight. Solid 10-foot faces rolled in for good part of the morning. Only 3 guys were out on the peak and fortunately everybody took turns spreading a peaceful vibe all along.
On the first serious drop of the morning the "Shros-egg" responded extremely well, I took-off on a nice angle, made a long bottom turn and gained speed to get around a breaking section right in front; unfortunately the white water caught the inside rail flipping the board under my feet, I went down, tumbled and hit the board under water. I cracked the glass of the new board on the second wave of the day! There was no way I was going to paddle back in on a day like this! I pulled out some wax from the sleeve and I filled the hole with it.
Some mutant sets came through breaking 50 yards further out. Although I was not able to get into the biggest sets of the morning, I still had a blast! The raw power of an overhead set hitting the reef is a great thing to experience, especially the instant before late take-offs: a giant invisible hand grabs from behind, the lift is breath-taking and there's almost a sense of being ripped off from the board until the feet land on the deck for another joyful ride.
What a great start for the new winter season! The new board felt solid throughout the whole session.