Wednesday, October 24, 2007

HB Redux

Another absurd session before dark closed my day. The swell was fading but a few occasional chest high sets were rolling in. The place was jammed! The young ego-maniacs who surf with a competition singlet (even if they competed the day before) were all out to hog as many waves as they could. I took off on a left without anyone in sight but one of these freaking junior pros suddenly appeared from nowhere and after snapping an off the lip on my right...he went for a full bottom-turn around me, he hit the nose of my board with his calves and kept going....unreal! I fell off the board...a bit stunned for what just happened. I paddled further north for some peace and quiet....which is just wishful thinking in damn Surf City! I have been physically attacked twice in 2 days...which never happened to me in 12 years of surfing...I'm speechless!

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