Monday, October 08, 2007

October

I stubbornly decided to go surf the Cliffs on Saturday morning. I well knew it was not the right thing to do, but lately I missed the vibe down there and I wanted to be in the water anyway.
I paddled out at dawn for a quick session in complete solitude. The wind swell produced some scattered peaks with nothing to ride except a quick drop fading in nothing more than flat mush.
Murky waters, high tide and texture on the surface made it quite unpleasant; but I enjoyed being in the water alone. It doesn't happen very often to paddle out to an empty line-up and paddle back with nobody in sight.

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