I Don't Wanna Go Home

I had the feeling this was the day. After checking PB around 4 pm on Saturday I knew the swell was on the rising. I pulled into the parking lot at 5:50 am and I found Bill waiting in his van.

We bolted down the trail in semi-darkness and we started paddling out around 6 am. The tide was a bit high, but nobody was out yet. I was in the "zone"! I bee-lined toward the southern tip of CH and I dialed in some perfect chest high gems. The swell was hitting at a perfect angle! I could drop, make the bowl and race 50 yards to the inside. The 6'8"Shros was on and I realized I could move the central fin half an inch forward without loosing much control. In chest to shoulder high surf should work just fine. The tide dropped to perfection around 8 am. After 3 hours Bill and I were the only 2 guys left and despite the fact I didn't wanna go home I had to surrender to hunger! A day to remember!