November

I met with Roland for a quick session in MB on Saturday around 6:30 Am. There was too much "west" in the swell, which translated in many close-outs at chest high range for part of the morning. I decided to drive to the Cliffs around 12 pm for a second session at lower tide. It turned out to be a good call, despite the light on-shore winds giving some texture to the surface.

I ended up at "CH." for a mellow session, waist high or so, with 50-yard reelers toward the south end. I shared the line up with 2 outstanding young long-boarders who paddled out from a boat anchored on the outside. It was a pleasure to watch them displaying the full bag of tricks with style... flawless cross-stepping, stalling manoeuvres, floaters, etc... it is so rare to witness the proper use of a longboard.
It was the usual work-out to get to the spot and paddle back to the line up after each wave. I opted out for a leashless session on the old Brewer since the egg will be in the shop for another week. It felt good roller-coasting on a reef wave after the morning beach-break struggle.