Another Session With Brad

Sunday has been a bit mellower than the day before! Size increased in the morning but it didn't translate in better surf. A cold front from the West brought breezy conditions, cold air and clouds. I joined Roland, Bill and Dede for a quick morning paddle. PB Drive was closing out for the most part, except for the usual few corners. The extreme high tide made things difficult... and the S. 6'8" turned out to be too small of a board. I couldn't paddle into the wave, there was too much water moving and I was left behind most of the time. The ankle I injured the day before troubled me to the point I was not sure I had the capability to surf again during the day; I eventually made it to the Cliffs to take advantage of the fast dropping tide and the lack of crowds ( football game starting at 12 pm emptied line-ups everywhere). It turned out to be quite good, Brad and Susan had a blast. Unfortunately my back foot was in pain and landing on the board became an excruciating ordeal. I realized for the first time how we rely on our back foot for the most important manoeuvres. It was a learning experience and a lesson in body mechanics. Brad surfed amazingly well on a 7' 2" twin fin, swallow tail; a difficult board to ride due to a flat rocker and parallel hard rails but he made it look easy!