Endless Sessions

Saturday morning, San Diego County. (Photos : Wil Phillips)

I don't remember spending so much time in the water on a winter day! 3 sessions in a single day for approximately 7 hours marked one of my longest performances in Southern California waters.

The morning started with a few waves in Pacific Beach on a longboard, waist high or so, extremely consistent conditions and well-shaped waves by a full moon morning tide; in one specific occasion 2 dolphins took off behind me as I was dropping in.... it was dolphin-fest out there!.

At 10:30 I got to meet Brad and Susan at the Cliffs. The surf picked up on a dropping tide, waist to chest, glassy, light off-shores, 80-yard perfect reelers kept pouring in for 3 hours straight.

Brad showed phenomenal foot-work on an old 9'6 single fin nose-rider. Waves were absolutely flawless and I witnessed Brad's phenomenal nose-riding. He got the place wired fairly quickly.

I didn't mind surfing my old long-board but the conditions were calling for my 6'8" egg. It would have been a blast. The left at Subs threw few barrels as well.

After a quick break for lunch we paddled back out in the afternoon, I brought my egg, although the crowd at Subs got a bit out of control and it became difficult to score good waves. Fortunately I was able to take advantage of a perfect left and getting tubed in the final hollow section! That made my day!....the surf kept coming all day long: I remember racing on a beautiful backlit emerald wall and thinking that it would be difficult to live without such beautiful surroundings..truly special!

We finally left around 5 pm without much energy left in us.