Surf Forecast

"Saturday the 12th should see quite an increase in NW swell from a significantly sized storm that, on Tuesday, was sitting mid way between Japan and Hawaii at a fairly low latitude (30-35N). This storm has held its expected trajectory, maintaining a near-direct westerly angle from us until high pressure near our area pushed it northward into the Gulf. This nudge to the north occurred about 1500 miles from our shores, keeping the nastiness away from our area while allowing long-period (16-18 second) swell to come our way from around 280+ degrees. As for size, most west facing breaks (not affected by island blockage) can expect DOH sets with south facing breaks seeing sets chest to head high. ETA for the bulk of this swell is expected predawn north of LA, dawn to early morning in LA, then mid to late morning in SD.

Conditions are, so far, looking quite well for this swell. Tide of course will recuperate to more normal levels, and weather models have downgraded the Santa Ana. At this point, it looks like offshore winds will be quite mild for at least the AM on Saturday, picking up though some on Sunday."

(excerpt from Wetsand forecast 01-11-08)