We Got Swell

The surf poured on the reefs again, light off-shores and outstanding conditions... It was another "ankle test" and the results were fairly positive. I decided to go out at "S" and it turned out to be a good choice. I planned to catch just a couple of waves and that's what I did. The first one was outstanding: the first 20 yards went by smoothly on a fairly open face, then the wave completely changed its nature hitting the inside reef! It became a nice vertical wall with heaving sections almost barreling over my head...I sped up through the last 50 yards making section after section until I was able to gracefully kicked out off the back. The pin tail 6' 10" Christenson turned out to be a great choice for the conditions. The thickness of the board absorbed all kind of vibrations giving a rest to my injured back foot.