Southern California Surf Forecast

"...Saturday the 17th WNW swell will build along the California coast as waves from the Japanese system begin to fill in. This will be from 280° with periods initially coming in at 18-20 seconds. Calculating the ETA and size this morning, it looks like most all west facing breaks will see head high surf around dawn with possibly spotty sets. Note though that rogue waves running 2-4 feet overhead are likely (albeit sporadic in the early AM). As the swell fills in throughout the morning, sets with waves running 2-3 feet overhead will become more likely at west facing breaks. By the afternoon or evening, top spots could see set waves hitting DOH. Since the periods will be exceptionally long, there will no doubt be disparity in size between breaks of varying bathymetry, where slower-sloped breaks see head high size while at the same time standouts with steep-sloped bathymetry see waves running DOH. Also, since this swell is coming in at a relatively low trajectory (~280°), south facing breaks should pick up a decent amount of wrap. The lengthy periodicity also means power, so heavy waves can be expected. Rip currents will also be a major concern, so caution is strongly advised. Winds should be lightly offshore in the morning, possibly to 10+ at wind-prone spots, and then turn lightly onshore in the afternoon. Tide will be low around 9:15 AM at about 1.5 feet, and high around 2:40 PM at about 2.9 feet. "

(Excerpt from Wetsand surf report)